Wong on the Tartan

Some thoughts on the Tartan. 

Work-in-progress, 15 November 2024

[A] Jing Zhi's tartan: 

• Wong, Jing Zhi (Personal), SRT 14535. 

[B] Tartan, Fabric, Trademarks, Designs, Copyright, Advertising, Misc, etc

Australia

• Trademark for "Highland Tartans" unsuccessful - no inherent distinctiveness: "Considering distinctiveness in fact, I believe the estimate of the sales of the products amounting to approximately $400,000 does not outweigh the mark's total lack of inherent distinctiveness and any capacity to distinguish.": Re Application number 575072 to register a trade mark in the name of SPOTLIGHT STORES PTY. LTD [1994] ATMO 77 <https://jade.io/article/591245>.  

• The Polo/Lauren Company L.P. v Ziliani Holdings Pty Ltd [2008] FCA 49. 

• Excess Duty on Tartan cloth: Re Broken Hill Cameron Pipe Band and Collector of Customs [1990] AATA 146 <https://classic.austlii.edu.au/cgi-bin/sinodisp/au/cases/cth/AATA/1990/146.html>.  

>> Tariff Reference 9999.40.28: "Goods, being traditional costumes that are authentic and characteristic in design and made from traditional materials in the country of origin of the tradition, imported by groups established for the purpose of performing in those traditional costumes" ... "Free": <https://www.abf.gov.au/tariff-classification-subsite/files/2012-tariff-classification/schedule-4b-2012.pdf>. 

> Customs By-law No. 2300024 (1 April 2023). "By-law (1) This section may be cited as Customs By-law No. 2300024. Prescribed goods (2) For the purposes of item 8, goods to which that item applies are traditional costumes that: (a) are authentic in design; and (b) are made from traditional materials in the country of the tradition’s origin. Conditions (3) Item 8 applies to those goods covered by subsection (2) subject to the condition that those goods are to be imported by groups established for the purpose of performing in those traditional costumes": p 18 <https://www.abf.gov.au/tariff-concessions-system-subsite/Gazettes/tc-23-13.pdf>. [Formerly 9999.40.28/40: <https://www.abf.gov.au/help-and-support-subsite/CustomsNotices/2012-55.pdf>].

> Concessional Tariff: Goods that are textiles, clothing or footwear, Item 32 - Free. Neck ties, <20% wool. By Law No. 2300096.

> Import Tariff -- Ref 5111: Woven Fabrics of Carded Wool or of Carded Fine Animal Hair. Ref 5111.19.00. 5%. (but, # Unless otherwise indicated NZ, PG, FI, DC, LDC and SG rates are Free)

> Tariff Concession Order No. 9807118 for "Fabric, Tartan, Clan or Sept or Regimental, 100% having ALL of the following: (a) cut lengths NOT greater than 5 m with no more than one length of any one design per consignment; (b) each length having a width of 140 cm minimum and 160 cm maximum; (c) having a weight NOT less than 300 g/running metre For the purposes of the Order, tartan will only be regarded as "clan or sept or regimental" if the invoice for the goods shows the name of the clan, sept or regiment that it represents. See <https://www.abf.gov.au/tariff-classification-subsite/Pages/TariffConcessionOrders.aspx?tcn=51111900>, archived at <https://archive.is/AlUIl>.  

> TCOs, 'Tariff concession orders – are your goods actually covered?' (Cooper Grace Ward) <https://cgw.com.au/publications/tariff-concession-orders-are-your-goods-actually-covered/>. 

• Copyright: 'Protecting Your Designs' (Webpage) <https://www.artslaw.com.au/information-sheet/protecting-your-designs/>. 

• Berne Convention: <https://www.business.qld.gov.au/running-business/risk/ip/ip-kit/browse-ip-topics/copyright-works/overseas-protection#:~:text=Australia%20is%20a%20party%20to,minimum%20levels%20of%20copyright%20protection.>.  

New Zealand

• Piping and Dancing Association of New Zealand Inc v Timely Marketing & Promotions Limited [2013] NZIPOTM 24 -- Trademark "No. 661704 New Zealand Tartan". <https://www.nzlii.org/cgi-bin/sinodisp/nz/cases/NZIPOTM/2013/24.html>.

• Libra Tampons (Tartan Wrap) Television Advertisement - Chairman's Ruling [2002] NZASA 322 <https://www.nzlii.org/cgi-bin/sinodisp/nz/cases/NZASA/2002/322.html>: "Complaint: The television Advertisement showed a young woman dressed in a mini red  tartan  kilt, standing as though waiting for a bus. She addressed the camera in a Scottish accent with, "Do you want to see what I am wearing under my kilt?" A voice-over then said, " Tartan . Part of the new Libra look." Accompanying visuals briefly showed the packaging of the Libra product range, finishing with the product advertised. The Complainant said, "... I would like to strenuously object to the current television ads for (I believe), Libra tampons. I consider this advertising campaign to be socially and morally irresponsible and sexually suggestive! Gross is another word which springs to mind! These ads, appear to me, to border on the obscene. ... The Chairman viewed the Advertisement and noted the Complaint. He took cognisance that the  tartan  kilt worn by the model related to the tartan wrap of the Libra product and that the Advertiser had employed the use of the old joke, "What does a Scotsman wear under his kilt?", to promote the new product. In his view, the scenario in the Advertisement contained an element of humour and would not be likely to cause either serious or widespread offence. Accordingly it did not reach the threshold required to effect a breach of the Advertising Codes.".

United Kingdom 

• Tartan Glory (Trade Mark: Opposition) [2000] UKIntelP O/003/00 <https://www.bailii.org/uk/cases/UKIntelP/2000/o00300.pdf>. 

• Tartan Army Ltd v Sett GmbH & Ors [2017] ScotCS CSOH 22. 

• Tartan pattern Copyright, UK

> see Designer Guild Ltd v Russell Williams (Textiles) Ltd [2001] ECDR (HL) 10 <https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/ld199900/ldjudgmt/jd001123/design-1.htm> 

> see also, Simon Clark, Sara Sefton and Marc Linsner, 'A Fabric Design Has Been Found to be a Work of Artistic Craftsmanship: Will Response Clothing Cause a Shift in How UK Copyright is Assessed?' (2020) 42 European Intellectual Property Review 612 <https://www.bristows.com/app/uploads/2020/11/A-fabric-design-has-been-found-to-be-a-work-of-artistic-craftsmanship.-Will-response-clothing-cause-a-shift-in-how-UK-copyright-is-assessed.pdf> --  Response Clothing Ltd v The Edinburgh Woollen Mill Ltd [2020] EWHC 148 (IPEC); [2020] F.S.R. 25.

> see also, 'Fabrics can be works of artistic craftsmanship in the UK: Response Clothing Ltd v The Edinburgh Woollen Mill Ltd' (11 February 2020) <https://www.bristows.com/viewpoint/articles/fabrics-can-be-works-of-artistic-craftsmanship-in-the-uk-response-clothing-ltd-v-the-edinburgh-woollen-mill-ltd/>. 

> see also, Abraham Moon & Sons Ltd v Thornber [2012] EWPCC 37 -- copying of the sett/threadcount - infringement.

• UK, registered design, shawls, "Victorian Tartan" and "Ettrick Shepherd's Plaid", tartan: Norton v Nicholls [1859] 28 LJ QB 225; 1El & El. 761, 762-767.

• "[30]  In the House of Lords case of Designers Guild Ltd v Russel Williams (Textiles) Ltd. [2000] 1 All ER 700 at 708, Lord Millet had succinctly summarised the essential elements in an action for copyright infringement in the following words (The alleged infringement was in respect of the alleged copying of a fabric design): “The first step in an action for infringement of artistic copyright is to identify those features of the defendant’s design which the plaintiff alleges have been copied from the copyright work. The court undertakes a visual comparison of the two designs, noting the similarities and the differences. The purpose of the examination is not to see whether the overall appearance of the two designs is similar, but to judge whether the particular similarities relied on are sufficiently close, numerous or extensive to be more likely to be the result of copying than of coincidence. It is at this stage that similarities may be disregarded because they are commonplace, unoriginal or consists of general ideas. If the plaintiff demonstrates sufficient similarity, not in the works as a whole but in the features he alleges have been copied, and establishes that the defendant had prior access to the copyright work, the burden passes to the defendant to satisfy the judge that, despite the similarities, they did not result from copying”.": Elias bin Idris v Mohd Syamsul bin Md Yusof & Ors [2018] MLJU 970, [30]. 

• Agreement on Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights 1994 as Amended by the 2005 Protocol Amending the TRIPS Agreement, Art 25(2): "2. Each Member shall ensure that requirements for securing protection for textile designs, in particular in regard to any cost, examination or publication, do not unreasonably impair the opportunity to seek and obtain such protection. Members shall be free to meet this obligation through industrial design law or through copyright law."

• Scottish Register of Tartans Act 2008 (UK). 

• Act of Proscription 1746 (Imp) -- Dress Act 1746, Abolition and Proscription of the Highland Dress, 19 Geo 2 c 39: "That from and after the first day of August, One thousand, seven hundred and forty-seven, no man or boy within that part of Britain called Scotland, other than such as shall be employed as Officers and Soldiers in His Majesty's Forces, shall, on any pretext whatever, wear or put on the clothes commonly called Highland clothes (that is to say) the Plaid, Philabeg, or little Kilt, Trowse, Shoulder-belts, or any part whatever of what peculiarly belongs to the Highland Garb; and that no tartan or party-coloured plaid of stuff shall be used for Great Coats or upper coats, and if any such person shall presume after the said first day of August, to wear or put on the aforesaid garment or any part of them, every such person so offending ... For the first offence, shall be liable to be imprisoned for 6 months, and on the second offence, to be transported to any of His Majesty's plantations beyond the seas, there to remain for the space of seven years."

United States

• Juicy Couture, Inc v Bella International Limited, et al, 930 F. Supp.2d 489 (2013), 501.

• Cluett, Peabody & Co, Inc v Savatux Facing Company, 277 F.2d 944 (1960). 

• Concord Fabrics, Inc v Generation Mills, Inc, 328 F.Supp 1030 (1971).  

• ** Novelty Textile Mills, Inc v Joan Fabrics Corporation, 558 F.2d 1090 (1977).

• Novelty Textile Mills, Inc v Joan Fabrics Corporation, 426 F.Supp 1008 (1977).

• J.N Collins Co v F.M Paist Co., 14 F.2d 614 (1926).

• US v Chong; Burberry, 677 F.3d 190 (2012) -- burberry plaid, counterfeit.

• Primcot Fabrics, Department of Prismatic Fabrics, Inc v Kleinfab Corporation, 368 F.Supp 482 (1974). 

• Mastercraft Fabrics Corporation v Dickson Elberton Mills Inc, 821 F.Supp 1503 (1993).

• Streetwise Maps, Inc v Vandam, Inc, 159 F.3d 739 (1998), 748: "Understanding this distinction between the unprotected and protected elements of copyrighted work, Streetwise's copyright infringement claim centers on the colors it selected to portray New York's geographical facts: purple to represent water and the use of a clarified white street grid. The district court entered judgment in favor of the defendants because it did not find the use of a particular color to be protectible. Streetwise cites two cases in support of its argument that its use of color is entitled to copyright protection: Knitwaves, 71 F.3d at 996, and Novelty Textile Mills, Inc. v. Joan Fabrics Corp., 558 F.2d 1090 (2d Cir.1977). In Knitwaves, a clothing manufacturer produced a sweater that allegedly infringed on the plaintiff's copyrights of its sweaters. The second comer's sweaters featured substantially similar designs, including the same symbols (leaves and squirrels) on similar backgrounds in virtually the same color scheme. See id. at 1004. We found the sweater design as a whole was entitled to copyright protection, not one particular color used. See id. at 1004 ("In this case, Knitwaves' `original contribution' consists ... in (1) selecting leaves and squirrels as its dominant design elements; (2) coordinating these design elements with a `fall' palette of colors and with a `shadowstriped' (for the Leaf Sweater) or a fourpaneled (for the Squirrel Cardigan) background; and (3) arranging all the design elements and colors into an original pattern for each sweater."). Similarly, in Novelty Textile Mills, we focused on the two works' designs as a whole, not simply the specific colors used. See 558 F.2d at 1093 n. 5 ("[B]oth fabrics use brown and camel or beige on a light-colored background to form a plaid design consisting of intersecting diamonds with an interior dimension of approximately four inches. And in each fabric, one series of diamonds is formed by a stripe which is somewhat broader than the other.")."

• Abercrombie & Fitch Stores, Inc v American Eagle Outfitters, Inc, 130 F.Supp.2d 928 (1999).

• Lou Schneider, Inc v Carl Gutman & Co, et al, 69 F.Supp 392 (1946).

• ** Peter Pan Fabrics, Inc. v Martin Weiner Co., 274 F.2d 487 (1960).

• * The Ferriswheel v United States, 489 F Supp 263 (1980). -- classification of tartans and jackets for customs purposes.

Articles: 

• Megan Rae Blakely, 'Pattern Recognition: Governmental Regulation of Tartan and Commodification of Culture' (2015) 22(4) International Journal of Cultural Property 487.

• Ross D Petty, 'Of Tartans and Trademarks' (2004) 94(4) The Trademarks Reporter 859. 

• Ross D Petty, 'Tartan Law: A Celebration of National Tartan Day' (2002) 35 Business Law Review 97.

• Charlotte Dunn, 'Scanning Cultural Heritage: The Implications for Intellectual Property and Cultural Institutions' (2020) 25(1) Art Antiquity and Law 25, 34: "... The case of Abraham Moon & Sons Ltd v. Thornber, which concerned fabric designs, confirmed that the manner of documentation is unimportant, it could be numbers or words, provided an image is somehow represented."

• 'Copyright for Fashion' (Libraries Indiana Universirty Bloomington) <https://guides.libraries.indiana.edu/c.php?g=158548&p=1176293>: " It is possible to obtain a design patent from the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office on a fashion design.  Unlike a copyright, which is obtained simply by filing a form and paying a small fee, design patent applications must be submitted with technical drawings, then are compared with existing works by examiners at the U.S.P.T.O. to determine if they are original.  The costs (easily $2,000 for filing fees and attorneys fees) and time involved (a year or more from filing to issuance of the patent) mean that few fashion designs are protected this way.  The U.S.P.T.O. has an introduction to design patents and how to apply for them. Both The American Bar Association's Legal Guide to Fashion Design and Fashion Law have chapters on design patents in fashion and how to submit an application. ... The designs on fabric are copyrightable as a "pictorial, graphic or sculptural work."  Such a copyright would restrict others from copying that fabric pattern.  Under the "first sale doctrine," the copyright gives no power to its owner to restrict the use of a the copyrighted fabric design by dressmakers.  The leading case on fabric designs is Peter Pan Fabrics, Inc. v. Martin Weiner Co., 274 F.2d 487 (2d Cir. 1960).   Another case that has a good explanation of the issue is Novelty Textile Mills, Inc. v. Joan Fabric Corp., 558 F.2d 1090 (2d Cir. 1977).".

• WIPO US Copyright: <https://www.wipo.int/edocs/mdocs/mdocs/en/wipo_ipr_ge_15/wipo_ipr_ge_15_t2.pdf>. 

• William P. Sullivan, 'Copyright Protection of Original Designs-- Absence of Statutory Notice.—Peter Pan Fabrics, Inc. v. Martin Weiner Corp' (1960) 2(1) Boston College Law Review 153 <https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/71458079.pdf>. 

[C] Tartan Design Resources, software, etc:

• Scottish Register of Tartans - Tartan Generator (requires threadcount information): <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/searchDesigns>.

• Colin Macleod, 'Tartaniser' (Webpage) <https://chiselapp.com/user/cmacleod/repository/tartaniser/home>, archived at <https://archive.is/S6UMV>. 

• Tartaniser (Online) <https://cmacleod.me.uk/tartaniser/>.  

• ** Tartaniser program (both online and as an .exe): <https://chiselapp.com/user/cmacleod/repository/tartaniser/doc/trunk/download.md> -- Tartaniser is a program to design and display Scottish tartan (also known as plaid in the USA).

• * Colin Macleod, 'Online tartan design program' (Reddit) <https://www.reddit.com/r/kilt/comments/18bmf8f/online_tartan_design_program/>, archived at <https://archive.is/SUyvf>: "Tartaniser is a little program "wot I have wrote" to design tartans. I have now set up a version which can be used online at https://cmacleod.me.uk/tartaniser . The original desktop version can be downloaded from https://chiselapp.com/user/cmacleod/repository/tartaniser/home . The program accepts threadcount and palette data in the format used by the Scottish Register of Tartans. ..."; see also, <https://cmacleod.me.uk/>. 

• Colin Macleod (LinkedIn) <https://www.linkedin.com/posts/colin-macleod-099a1713_tartaniser-activity-6846528185476112384-brEh>, archived at <https://archive.md/OgV7o>. 

• ** Guidance - Registration of a Tartan -- see 'How to apply to register a tartan' (Scottish Register of Tartans) <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/registerGuidance>. 

• PlaidMaker <https://www.plaidmaker.com/>. 

[D] Registration, Indexing, Creation of Tartans, sett, studies of, etc. 

• Keith Lumsden, 'Scottish Tartans: An Indexing Challenge' (2000) 22(2) The Indexer 69 <https://www.liverpooluniversitypress.co.uk/doi/epdf/10.3828/indexer.2000.22.2.5>. -- Register of All Publicly Known Tartans, indexing of tartan by sett and description.

• Sally Tuckett, 'Reassessing the Romance: Tartan as a Popular Commodity, c. 1770-1830' (2016) 95(2) Scottish Historical Review 182.

• Michael Hann and Chaoran Wang, 'Symmetry, ratio and proportion in Scottish clan tartans - Templates for modern designers' (2016) 24(6) Research Journal of the Costume Culture 873 <https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO201609633505232.pdf>.

• Chaoran Wang and Michael Andrew Hann, 'Checks, Grids and Tartan' (2015) 23(5) Research Journal of the Costume Culture 922 <http://dx.doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.922>. 

• ** Michael Hann, Stripes, grids and checks (Bloomsbury Academic, 2020). 

• Chaoran Wang and Michael A Hann, 'Regular pattern design using tartan proportions and grid manipulations' (2021) 29(6) Research Journal of the Costume Culture 932 <https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO202108458520364.pdf>. 

• Meong Jin Shin, Thomas Cassidy and EM Moore, 'Cultural reinvention for traditional Korean bojagi' (2011) 4(3) International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 213, pt 3 <https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2011.579578>. 

• Eva Knoll, 'Pattern transference: making a ‘Nova Scotia tartan’ bracelet using the peyote stitch' (2009) 3(4) Journal of Mathematics and the Arts 185 <https://doi.org/10.1080/17513470903196177>.

• Helen Bennett, 'Sir John Hynde Cotton's Highland Suit' (1980) 14(1) Costume 95.

• Chaoran Wang, 'The Geometric Division of Space. Frameworks for Design Analysts' (PhD Thesis, Leeds, 2017) <https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/17433/1/Wang%20C.%20%20School%20of%20Design%20PhD%202017.pdf>. 

• Meong Jin Shin, 'Cultural Reinvention: Design management for Korean cultural textile products' (PhD Thesis, Leeds, 2011) <https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/2181/3/Shin_MJ_Design_PhD_2011.pdf> ch 3.

• Ciara Courtney, 'Tartan through the maker's lens: An exploration of Tartans Romantic Inventions' (MRes Thesis, Glasgow School of Art, 2023) <https://radar.gsa.ac.uk/8998/19/2023_Courtney_Ciara_MRes.pdf>. 

• Chaoran Wang, Michael Andrew Hann and Samuel How Lai Luk, 'Clashing Tradition Textile Pattern Design based on Tartan Proportions' (Conference Paper, 2019) <https://eprints.lancs.ac.uk/id/eprint/141576/1/Microsoft_Word_ITCC_2019_Full_paper.docx.pdf>. 

• ** Mary E Black, The Sett and Weaving of Tartans (Lily Mills, 1959) <https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/monographs/bme_tart.pdf>. 

• * Jane Williamson, 'All About Plaids' (Extension Service, North Dakota State University, A-492, 1966) <https://library.ndsu.edu/ir/bitstream/handle/10365/17184/A-492-1966.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y>.  

• Ning Zhang et al, 'Pattern design and optimization of yard-dyed plaid fabric using isolation niche genetic algorithm and rough set theory; (2022) 47(1) Color Research & Application 213-224 <https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1002/col.22715>.

• Deirdre Kinloch Anderson, Kinloch Anderson Scotland : a Scottish tradition : tailors and kiltmakers, tartan and Highland dress since 1868 (Neil Wilson Publishing, 2013) <https://archive.org/details/kinlochandersons0000kinl>, <https://openlibrary.org/books/OL27536448M> (OA).  

• James Scarlett, The tartan weaver's guide : 142 tartans in colour, with historical notes, 228 thread counts and guidance for weavers (Shepheard-Walwyn, 1985).

• Penelope Alfrey, 'Tartan' (2010) 23(1) Journal of Design History 117 <https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epp063>. 

• Mark Hampshire and Keith Stephenson, Communicating with pattern : squares, checks and grids (RotoVision, 2007). 

• Agnes Macdonald, Simple Tartan Weaving (Dryad Press, 1952).

• David H Caldwell, 'The Origins of Plaid Wearing' (2021)100(3) Scottish Historical Review 437. 

• Alexander Theroux, 'Plaid' (1998) 86(3) The Yale Review 33.

• 'Working with Plaid Fabrics' (University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service, CT-MMB.018) <http://fcs-hes.ca.uky.edu/sites/fcs-hes.ca.uky.edu/files/ct-mmb-018.pdf>. 

• Ellin Grossman and Mary Ann Boykin, 'Perceiving the Grid: Weaving the Tartan Plaid' (1988) 41(3) Art Education 14 <https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/00043125.1988.11651387>. 

• Ken and Ewan MacDonald, 'Tartan Design Guide' (Presentation) <https://www.kiltmakers.com/pub/media/brochures/pdf/new/Tartan_Design_PDF_16-11-23.pdf>. 

> See also, <https://www.kiltmakers.com/pub/media/brochures/pdf/Houston_Kiltmakers_Special_Weave_Tartan_Guide.pdf>. 

> See also, <https://www.kiltmakers.com/pub/media/brochures/pdf/new/Tartan_Design_PDF_16-11-23.pdf>. 

• Viccy Coltman, 'Party-Coloured Plaid? Portraits of Eighteenth-Century Scots in Tartan' (2010) 41(2) Textile History 182 <https://doi.org/10.1179/174329510X12798919710635>. 

• Dorothea Sampson Miller, 'Historic Scottish Tartans and their Relation to Native Costume' (MA Thesis, University of Chicago, 1953) <https://www.proquest.com/docview/302041057>. 

• Gillian Black et al, 'Scotland the Brand - Marketing the Myth' (2015) 24(1) Scottish Affairs 47.

• Amy Shane-Nichols and Eulanda Sanders, 'Designing a University Tartan: A Case Study' (2020) International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, No. 77. <https://www.iastatedigitalpress.com/itaa/article/11796/galley/11203/view/>. 

• Nina Engelhardt, 'Tartanised Identities? Tartan as a Medium of Fashioning Scottishness in the 21st Century' (2024) 31(1) Journal for the Study of British Cultures 59 <https://jsbc.winter-verlag.de/data/article/12021/pdf/152401001.pdf>. 

• Ian Brown, ‘Tartan, Tartanry and Hybridity' in Ian Brown (ed), From Tartan to Tartanry (Oxford University Press, 2010) <https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9780748638772.003.0001>. 

• * Donald William Stewart, Old and Rare Scottish Tartans (George P Johnston, 1893) <https://ia800608.us.archive.org/12/items/oldrarescottisht00stew/oldrarescottisht00stew.pdf>. 

• 'Tartan' (Britannica Encyclopaedia) <https://www.britannica.com/art/tartan-textile-design>. 

• Books about Tartan: 

> Jeffrey Banks and Doria De la Chapelle, Tartan: Romancing the Plaid (Rizzoli, 2015). 

>  Ian Brown (ed), From Tartan to Tartanry (Edinburgh University Press, 2012). 

> E M Budd, Scottish Tartan Weddings: A Practical Guidebook (Hippocrene Books, 2000).

> Caroline Young and Anne Martin, Tartan + Tweed (Frances Lincoln, 2017). 

> Gordon Teall and Philip D Smith, District Tartans (Shepheard-Walwyn, 1992).

[E] Misc:

• Kemii Maguire, 'Koala gets its own tartan as Australian weavers officially register the pattern in Scotland' (ABC News, 27 October 2021) <https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-10-27/australian-koalas-gets-its-own-tartan-by-gunnedah-weavers/100552578>, archived at <https://archive.is/jf3nQ>. 

• 'International Tartan Day and the Queensland Tartan' (State Library of Queensland, 16 June 2014) <https://www.slq.qld.gov.au/blog/international-tartan-day-and-queensland-tartan>. 

• 'Australian Tartans' (House of Tartans) <https://www.houseoftartans.com.au/pages/australian-tartans>.  

• Alice Dempster, 'Premier Jay Weatherill approves SA tartan before Government enters caretaker mode' (ABC News, 22 February 2018) <https://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-02-22/sa-premier-jay-weatherill-signs-off-on-south-australias-tartan/9474632>.  

• Alicia Bridges, 'Scottish Register of Tartans say 'aye' to Perth-designed Spirit of Australia team' (ABC News, 12 March 2022) <https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-03-12/perth-tartan-celebrates-colours-of-australia/100904182>, archived at <https://archive.is/bppc1>. 

• David Loranger and Eulanda A Sanders, 'Sumptuary Synergy: British Imperialism Through the Tartan and Slave Trades' (2016) Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings 1021 <https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2023&context=tsaconf>. 

• David Loranger and Eulanda A Sanders, 'Ties that Bind: Britain's Use of Scottish Highland Dress' (2020) 38(4) Clothing and Textile Research Journal 240.

• Francesca Fearon, 'How Scotland’s traditional tartan patterns conquered fashion, from Vivienne Westwood’s punk looks to Burberry and Dior runways' (South China Morning Post, 9 September 2024) <https://www.scmp.com/magazines/post-magazine/fashion/article/3277305/how-scotlands-traditional-tartan-patterns-conquered-fashion-vivienne-westwoods-punk-looks-burberry>, archived at <https://archive.is/tymdO>. 

• ‘Mangers keep kilt tradition’ (The Courier Mail, 20 May 2010) <https://www.couriermail.com.au/news/queensland/ipswich/mangers-keep-kilt-tradition/news-story/22f969b751c0f68a388e41cf6971d56e>, archived at <https://archive.is/TPWcy>. 

• Intangible Cultural Heritage: Kay Dunn, 'Tartan v Tweed: Exploring the Bifurcation of ICH Safeguarding in Scotland' (2024) Queen Mary Law Journal <https://qmro.qmul.ac.uk/xmlui/bitstream/handle/123456789/101010/12%20Tartan%20vs%20Tweed%20-%20Kay%20Dunn.pdf?sequence=2&isAllowed=y>. 

[F] Weaving / Printing Tartan

Fabric Printing

• 'Print your own Fabric' (Webpage) <https://www.digitalfabrics.com.au/print-your-own-fabric/>, <https://www.digitalfabrics.com.au/how-it-works/artwork-requirements/>. 

• Print + Sew: 'Applik custom-made homewares' (Webpage) <https://applik.com.au/collections/applik-custom-made-homewares>. 

• 'Printed Tartan Fabric - Any Tartan' (ScotlandShop, Webpage) <https://www.scotlandshop.com/tartan/fabrics/printed-fabric>. 

Worsted Wool - Weave

• "Australia's mill has closed many years ago.": House of Tartan, Australia, 3 November 2024, personal correspondence.

• "There is no mill in Australia capable of weaving a worsted wool in a small quantity. Thirty years ago, we had 5 mills, but our unions put an end to our local manufacturing. ... ": St Kilda Retail, Australia, 3 November 2024, personal correspondence. 

• "... We can certainly make up neck ties in any tartan including your own design. If looking for wool tartan ones there is a minimum order weave of 13m which would make about 75 ties so maybe a bit more than you want but if you were looking for other items to be made then it could be an option. ...": House of Tartan, UK, 3 November 2024, personal correspondence.  

• 'Custom Made In Any Tartan Collection' (House of Tartan, Webpage) <https://www.houseoftartan.co.uk/scottish/binr2.asp?secid=70&subsecid=2217>. -- wool, 13m minimum run.

• 'Custom Weave Specials' (House of Tartan, Webpage) <https://www.houseoftartan.co.uk/interactive/weaving.asp>, archived at <https://archive.is/JwxqP>. -- Special Weave Packages.

• 'Weaving Your Cloth' (Gordon Nicolson, Webpage) <https://nicolsonkiltmakers.com/pages/gnk-tartan-design-service>. -- 10m minimum.

• 'Custom Woven Fabrics' (DC Dalgliesh, Webpage) <https://www.dcdalgliesh.co.uk/custom>. 

• Andrew Elliot Ltd (Webpage) <https://www.elliot-weave.co.uk/>. -- "Our minimum order is 11m, 30” wide, at £80/m. Leadtime is currently 12 weeks", personal correspondence, 7 November 2024. 

• NZ: Inter-Weave (Webpage) <https://www.inter-weave.com/our-wool>. 

[G] Publicly Known Tartans of People: 

[G.A] of Chinese, Malaysian (incl. the Malay States) and Singaporean descent:

Malaysia

• Yusra (Malay) (Personal), SRT 10455 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10455>.

• Johore, STA 1309 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=1902>. 

• Johore Regiment, STA 260 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=1903>. 

> See also, 'Untold History: The Lost Tartan of Johore' (Blog, 17 January 2012) <https://untoldhistoriesofmalaya.blogspot.com/2012/01/untold-history-lost-tartan-of-johore.html>, archived at <https://archive.is/DgWaL>. 

• G P Bathija (Shikarpur, Sindh), SRT 10690 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10690>. 

> See also, 'Hans Girdhari Bathija (陳順興), BA, FRAS, FRSA' (Webpage) <https://www.chinese-armorial.com/Bathija_Hans/Bathija_Hans.html>.

• Townsend, David James & Family (Personal), SRT 13750 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13750>.

• Tune Hotels, SRT 10742 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10742>. 

• Wong, Jing Zhi (Personal), SRT 14535: 

>>  <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14535>, archived at <https://perma.cc/XQB7-NVAQ>;

>> <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanLargeImage?ref=14535>, archived at <https://perma.cc/S9H8-7ES9>; 

>> <https://archive.is/fh85S>; see also <https://archive.is/fKRMy>. 

>> NZ Registered Des. IP No. 434592. 

>> UK Registered Des. No. 6400507.

• YTL, SRT 13933 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13933>. 

Singapore

• Ng, Hin Yeung (Personal), SRT 14250 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14250>. 

• Galloway, Caitlin (Personal), SRT 12645 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=12645>. 

• 43 Commando (Fleet Protection) Group Royal Marines, SRT 11603 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11603>. 

• Candleriggs, SRT 12192 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=12192>. 

• INSEAD, STR 11527 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11527>. 

> See also, 'Woven in our Fabric' (Webpage) <https://alumnimagazine.insead.edu/woven-in-our-fabric/>. 

China / Hong Kong

• Ploysongsang, Edward and Family (Personal), SRT 14241 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14241>. 

> See also, 'Edward Thiravej Ploysongsang (朱生勝), Esq.' (Webpage) <https://www.chinese-armorial.com/Ploysongsang_Edward_Thiravej/Ploysongsang_Edward_Thiravej.html>. 

• Ebert-Moran, Yasmin & Family (Personal), SRT 13442 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13442>.

• MaleHsuHK (Hong Kong) (Personal), SRT 10496 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10496>. 

• Smith, Andersons (Personal), SRT 13539 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13539>. 

• Passion of Hong Kong, SRT 13265 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13265>. 

> See also, Billy Potts, 'Scottish Hong Kong: A Red-White-Blue Tartan Especially for Hong Kong' (Webpage) <https://zolimacitymag.com/scottish-hong-kong-a-red-white-blue-tartan/>. 

> See also, Billy Potts, 'Scottish Hong Kong: A Visit to Yuen's, The Expert Kiltmakers' (Webpage) <https://zolimacitymag.com/scottish-hong-kong-a-visit-to-yuens-the-expert-kilt-makers/>, archived at <https://archive.md/l1WV2>. 

> See also, 'How tailor and kilt-maker Bonny Yuen dreamed up a Hong Kong-inspired tartan print' (Cathay Pacific, 12 September 2023) <https://www.cathaypacific.com/cx/en_AU/inspiration/hong-kong/tailor-bonny-yuen-hongkong-tartan.html>, archived at <https://archive.is/L8fGt>. 

• Nasir, Amirali Bakirali (Personal), SRT 11837 <https://tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11837>; <https://www.registered-design.service.gov.uk/find/6013851>. 

• Memories of Fragrant Harbour, SRT 14074 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14074>. 

• Pearl of the Orient, SRT 11343 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11343>. 

• Jiang, V & Cumine, A (Personal), SRT 12583 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=12583>. 

• Kwok, Peter (Personal), SRT 12190 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=12190>. 

• Chinese Scottish, STA 6807 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartandetails?ref=636>. 

[G.B] of Western Australian and Queensland descent (or otherwise connected with Western Australia or Queensland):

• Comann Albannach UQ, SRT 14417 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14417>. 

> Lachlan Chadwick, 6 April 2023: <https://www.facebook.com/groups/uqstalkerspace/posts/6284520561600035/>, archived at <https://archive.md/RKzte>. -- Tartan developed by community submission. 

> DB/18 LP18 K24 DP40 W8 P22 LP3 K/6: see Lachlan Chadwick, 5 September 2023, <https://www.facebook.com/groups/uqstalkerspace/posts/8429250193793717/?_rdr>, archived at <https://archive.is/qdKK7>. 

• Emmanuel College (University of Queensland), SRT 11966 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11966>, archived at <https://archive.md/gOT8b>. 

> 'Emmanuel gets a touch of tartan' (Webpage) <https://www.emmanuel.uq.edu.au/emmanuel-gets-a-touch-of-tartan/>, archived at <https://archive.is/zHyzw>. 

• Capricornica / Capricornia, STA 3126 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=559>. 

• Wanless, STA 3913 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=4915>. 

• Wong, Jing Zhi (Personal), SRT 14535 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14535>, archived at <https://perma.cc/XQB7-NVAQ>.

• Dalveen (2004), STA 6657 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=883>. 

• Bon Scott Heritage, SRT 14147 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14147>. 

• Law of Heather Athol (Personal), STA 493 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=2065>. 

• Queensland, STA 2618 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=3431>. 

• Spencer (2013), SRT 10901 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10901>. 

• Laws, Julian (Personal), SRT 11973 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11973>. 

• City of Armadale, STA 5868 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=654>. 

• Timmons, James (Personal), SRT 12964 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=12964>. 

• Western Australia (Scottish Associations), SRT 10513 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10513>. 

• Scotshill, SRT 11175 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11175>. 

• Spirit of Western Australia, SRT 14011 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14011>. 

• Bain, Tom (Personal), SRT 12167 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=12167>. 

• Clan Harben Pty Ltd, SRT 13917 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13917>. 

• MacPhee (Black and White), STA 1252 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=2699>. 

• Laing of Archiestown, STA 2544 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=2028>. 

[G.C] of New Zealand descent:

• Anzac, STA 3042 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=5232>. 

• Auckland, STA 3043 <https://tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=5087>. 

• Canterbury, STA 3265 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=5326>. 

• Aitken, STA 3029 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=4891>. 

• de Franck, Matt (Personal), SRT 10449 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10449>. 

• Dempster (Personal), STA 2219 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=913>. 

• Ewbank, STA 5798 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=1141>. 

• Glenfalloch, STA 2111 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=1415>. 

• Hororata, STR 10536 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10536>. 

• Houston (Personal), STA 2290 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=1773>. 

• Houston #2 (Personal), STA 6043 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=1774>. 

• Kennewell (Personal), SRT 10039 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10039>. 

• King Pootatau Te Wherowhero, SRT 11366 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11366>. 

• MacKean (Personal), STA 1142 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=2508>. 

• MacKean Green (Personal), STA 1060 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=2507>. 

• MacKean Hunting, STA 985 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=2510>. 

• MacKean Red (Personal), STA 1604 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=2511>. 

• McGillan, Ursula (Personal), SRT 13075 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13075>. 

• Neilson, Andrew Peter (Personal), SRT 12187 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=12187>. 

• New Zealand (2000), STA 4125 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=3124>. 

• New Zealand (2003), STA 5790 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=3125>. 

• Otago, STA 2317 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=3275>. 

• Pride of New Zealand, STA 2632 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=3373>. 

• Silver Fern, SRT 11980 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11980>. 

• Smith Fehsenfeld, Cameron & Andrea and Family (Personal), SRT 13528 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13528>. 

• Southern Lakes, SRT 11624 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=11624>.

> See also, 'Southern Lakes Tartan' (Webpage) <https://southernlakestartan.nz/pages/story>. 

• St Kentigern College, STA 7756 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=5736>. 

• Strath Taieri, STA 14151 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=14151>. 

• Tait, I (Personal), STA 13041 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=13041>. 

• Virtuoso, SRT 10082 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=10082>. 

• Waipu, STA 6510 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=4476>. 

• Westenra of Christchurch, STA 6881 <https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=4606>. 

Archived: 27 Oct 2024 <https://archive.is/rSi4E>; 2 Nov 2024 <https://archive.is/Et9Ae>; 9 Nov 2024 <https://archive.is/8Qfvm>. 

© Jing Zhi Wong, 2023-2025